Saturday, May 17, 2014

Glueless L-Girders

I've been fighting mold and mildew on some of the benchwork. I think there was some on the plywood I bought a few years ago and now it's just manifested itself. The wood had been stored in a shed so I think I'm seeing the remnants of that storage now, particularly after the sump failed for a brief time. Anyways, this required me to rip out a set of legs and an L-Girder. When I was building the L-girders before, I didn't really like using all the clamps while the glue dried or trying to get the screws in to hold both pieces in place. I figured there had to be another way that wasn't that hard. My other hobby is woodworking and I recently purchased a Kreg Jig that assisted me in making drawers for a dresser. I had also used it for the table top of the dresser as well as attached other pieces together for various parts of the dresser. I thought it would be a great tool to use to create a new L-Girder.

First, there are a few various jigs available. The one I used was the workbench jig which includes a base that can hold the Kreg Jig itself. The base also has a clamp and I had attached the vacuum attachment but realized I didn't have the right nozzle to hook mine up to it. I placed the long board into the base and clamped it down.

Jig from above
Jig from the side

I then took the cordless drill with the extra long bit that comes with the set and drilled through one of the holes in the top of the jig shown in the top photo. Below is the first pocket hole drilled for the long board.


 Here are the others for the rest of the board



Next up you put the board together as show  below.


The jig comes with a clamp that is used to join two pieces of wood that will be placed together using the pocket holes.

Below is the setup. I didn't notice it before, but the ends weren't flush together like they should be so the L-girder wasn't flush on that end.

Here is a look from the front.

With one of the pocket holes clamped, you then use the special, square bit to screw the Kreg made screws into the pocket holes and repeat for all the holes.


 The finished L-girder without any glue.



Here it is installed in which it will be the base for the helix.

You can see my mistake on the flush sides with the clamp.

Overall, this whole process, if I wasn't taking photos, would've only taken about 5-10 minutes. In my next post, I'll show how I used the jig to fix sections of benchwork I had to take out due to the same mold/mildew issue.

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Welcome to the my Conrail Model Railroad site. I will document the research, design, construction and operations of my N-scale model railroad based on Conrail's Ft. Wayne Line in Ohio.

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